Jaycee Keef
 
Mourning was a public act, so to do it correctly was high fashion.  Whether an aristocrat mourned or not showed his animosity or recognition toward the deceased.  If the relative that had passed was loathed, one might don mourning as slight as possible, just enough not to give offense.
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I came across a great article on Regency Mourning Customs.  You can read it here: http://lindabanche.blogspot.com/2010/04/donna-hatch-regency-mourning-customs.html 

So I thought I would share with you a few of my Regency mourning fashion plates.These are from the end of the Regency era.   I have included a Carriage dress, a half-mourning dress and evening attire.
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CARRIAGE DRESS, MOURNING (1820)

A loose wrapping-coat of very fine black cloth worn over a black bombasine dress.  The coat is lined and trimmed with ermine.  The pelerine, collar and cuffs are also of ermine.  A white crape fichu, with a full puckered collar, tied with a black love ribbon, shades the bust of the dress and stands above the collar of the coat.  Headdress, a bonnet composed of black crape over black sarsnet: the crown is ornamented with twisted rouleaux of black crape, placed crosswise; the brim is lined with double white crape; a black feather ornament is placed in front, and a full bow of crape ties it under the chin.  Black chamois-leather half-boots and gloves.

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EVENING DRESS, MOURNING FASHION (1820)

A black crape round dress over a black sarnet slip: the corsage is cut very low all around the bust.  A pelerine of while crape is affixed to the back, and comes down on each side of the bust as low as the waist in front.   It consists of four falls of double puckered crape; is rounded behind, and pointed at the fronts.  The bottom of the skirt is ornamented with a broad trimming of white crape; intersected with narrow coquings of black crape, disposed in a scroll pattern.  There are two rows of these laid on the white crape, at some distance from each other.  Headdress, a demi-cornette, composed of white crape, over which is a small crape hat.  The brim is of equal breadth all round, but is bent down a little in back.  It is lined with white crape, and trimmed with a full puffing of the same material round the edge of the brim.  Three white feathers decorate the crown.  Necklace and earrings, jet.  Black chamois leather gloves and shoes.

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WALKING DRESS, HALF MOURNING (1819)

A round dress of figured silk, the ground grey, with a small black leaf.  The body is made partially high round the shoulders and back but sloped low in front; it is trimmed with a puffing of grey crape ornamented between each puff with a jet bead.  The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with a deep flounce of black crape, embroidered in grey silk: this is surmounted by a plain band of black crape embroidered in grey silk, and the whole thing is finished by a broad band of bias black satin laid on full.  Fishu of white crape with a very full ruff. Over this is a pelisse composed of either black or grey velvet, lined with a white sarsnet.  The body is made tight to the shape and comes up high behind but has no collar; it is sloped in front so as to display the fichu; it wraps across the front and has a falling white satin pereine.  he sleeve is tight; the shoulders are finished by puffings of white satin.  The trimming, which goes all round the pelisse, consists of satin coquings, interspersed with leaves.  Headdress a gypsy hat, composed of British Leghorn, and ornamented with full plume of ostrich feathers;  the brim is turned up before and behind.  Black leather half-boots.  White kid gloves.  Ermine muff.
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